Is Panama’s Black Christ A Symbol Of Hope Or Foolishness?
I missed the Festival Of The Nazarene, (commonly known as the Festival of The Black Christ) two years in a row. I’m beginning to wonder if I’ll ever see it before I leave Panama. Persons have tried to dissuade me, saying it is too crowded in Portobello that day. Others have said the event is ‘foolishness’. Is it?
Although I’ve missed the festival, I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to visit the Iglesia de San Felipe (St. Phillip’s Catholic Church) to see this world famous statue. I don’t know if it’s my hyperactive imagination or if there really is ’something’ about this statue….
[Image of El Nazareno/El Cristo Negro - Photo By Marvia Lawes]
The celebration of the Festival of The Black Christ began around 1821 in Portobello, Panama. I first encountered this religious tradition while doing Contemporary Theology back in Seminary. It appealed to my incurable interest in World religions and I’ve been fascinated since then. I had no idea that one day I would end up in Panama.
Around the end of September of my first year in Panama, I began to see purple clad adults and children everywhere in Colon and Panama City. They were too many to go unnoticed. Upon inquiry, I was reminded of the Festival of el Christo Negro. These were devotees of the Black Christ and they wear the purple robes in honor of him.
Although this religious tradition has historically been located among the Black Panamanians of Portobello, especially the Congos - this is by no means a ‘Blacks only’ celebration. This festival has been said to attract more than 50,000 pilgrims each year! I cannot imagine Portobello holding so many people.
Purple/Maroon Clad Devotees Of El Cristo Negro
The purple or maroon coloured robes are symbolic of similar coloured robes worn by the Black Christ. By the second week of October up to the week leading into the 21st (the culmination of the Festival), It is common to see purple/maroon clad women and men with various sized bundles (offerings) on their heads or on their backs. They walk or crawl all the way to Portobello from as far as Panama City (some 50 miles away) and beyond.
“Crawling Pilgrims” Photo Courtesy of Your Panama
The pilgrimages (treks), bundled offerings, and various paraphernalia attached to the clothing or worn on the body are said to be part of the penance or offerings being made to the Christ.
Bringing Robes, Selves and Other Offerings
The worshipers come in with their needs, pains and sufferings seeking relief and deliverance. Those who have been blessed or healed often returned with gifts that are pinned to the robe of the Christ. In this picture below, you get a close-up view of some of the jewellery left by devotees on the robe of the el Christo Negro.
Legend of El Christo Negro
This is another interesting tradition that has emerged out of the multiplicity of Africanized-Christian interpretations of God, and God in Christ. Make no mistake though, this is not unique to Black people. Recently, I read about the thousands of devotees who flocked to the exhumed body of Padre Pio an Italian Roman Catholic priest who was believed to have the gift of Stigmata.
It’s funny how we don’t hear much condemnation of that, but when Black people express their religiosity in a similar way it becomes foolishness or even ‘witchcraft’. Hmmmm………
We note though, that Roman Catholicism is by far more tolerant of the religious practices of indigenous peoples than any other Christian tradition that I am aware of. Thus it is no surprise that the veneration of el Nazareno is located within the Roman Catholic tradition.
[Bay at Portobello - Photo by Marvia Lawes]
Legend has it that this statue of el Christo Negro which was carved in Spain was en route to another country when it got lost at sea. The how of that event is at the root of much speculation. It is said though that the statue surfaced in the waters of Portobello and was brought to shore by fishermen.
The legend goes further to claim that there was a cholera epidemic in Portobello at the time the statue was discovered and brought to shore. After much prayer the Cholera miraculously disappeared, and this was attributed to the presence of el Nazereno.
Panama’s Festival of the Black Christ is testimony to the fact that some Black Panamanians and people from other parts of the world, do not count their devotion as foolishness but are filled with hope in their encounters with this representation of Christ. It is important to clarify this common error made by some Christians.
This is not ‘worship’ of the Black Christ, it is giving veneration to one who acts as Mediator between the pilgrims and God. The Black Christ is not worshiped as God. Even if you disagree with the practice, it is not an excuse to remain ignorant about it or propagate said ignorance some of which is born out of nothing but racism and bigotry.
Look out for Part II and more thoughts on Images Of A Black Christ.
Until then,
Marvia
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May 6th, 2008 at 12:35 pm
[...] Colon. This is the same church that is the residence of the Black Christ. Read more about Panama’s Black Christ - el Christo Negro in this [...]
May 7th, 2008 at 4:54 pm
This is very interesting indeed. Of course I don’t believe this is foolishness at all. As you mentioned, it is a common expression of hope -shown in various ways-for people all over the world.
Since you said, “Roman Catholicism is by far more tolerant of the religious practices of indigenous peoples…” I wonder, since Catholics carved this, could this be one of their saints? Even though the Spaniards had African slaves during the 16th century they also traded regularly with Africans. I remember reading that during the early colonization of Africa, Africans identified with Catholicism due to their recognition of saints. It was common practice in many African Traditional Religions to give thanks to gods in respect to nature (water, earth etc…). Africans used the Catholic’s saint figurines but named them after their gods (please don’t get this confused with polytheism because Africans didn’t comprehend Angels at the time).
Hmmm, sounds like a great reason for me to do some research.
I heard someone say that the reason why the “Christ” is black is because of all the years of candle smoke and that the statue was originally Caucasian, lol.
Peace,
KA
May 7th, 2008 at 7:51 pm
KA,
You had me cracking up with the candle-smoke theory on el Nazareno. Good one
The ‘Africanization of Christianity’ is truly an interesting area of research. Everywhere Africans encountered Catholicism something very interesting emerges. Look at Brazil (Candomble), Cuba (santeria), Haiti (Voudon) for similarities if not necessarily acceptance in the church.
Somehow I don’t think this statue was intended to be a ’saint’ since it’s a deliberate rendition of the Christ figure carrying the cross. I believe it was intended to represent the Christ. There are ideas around to support a Black Madonna and a Black Christ child which some feel are for more than simple whimsical art.
Do share your findings with us.
Peace,
Marvia
May 7th, 2008 at 9:04 pm
OK, I was reaching…I hope to check things out when I get to Panama. Interesting research indeed.
As far as the candle smoke thing…..http://youtube.com/watch?v=O9AkefwMkE4&feature=related I don’t make this stuff up…..
Peace,
KA
May 8th, 2008 at 9:14 am
Thanks for the link KA!
And remember to share your findings with us. The story must be told…
M
May 8th, 2008 at 7:08 pm
I heard that “candle smoke theory” when I saw the video, and I knew the person who said that was awfully foolish. But we heard something similar with the Black Madonna, etc. Just remember, many folks really believe that God and Jesus are white. El Nazareno worship in Panama is testament that the African Spirit is vibrant and indomitable.
Mis Codiales Saludos.
May 10th, 2008 at 8:17 pm
Ana,
Thank you for visiting!
Events in the US over the past couple months have shown the difficulties the world still has with trying to understand Black spiritualities. To conceive of God and Jesus as being anything other than white has been labeled by many as blasphemous
Peace,
Marvia
May 12th, 2008 at 12:28 pm
I’ll blame it on the years of conditioning via the images over the television but, I don’t know, a white person crawling or walking and whipping themselves as they walk in one of those Easter processions always seem to look better than when a black person does it. :-I
Poor me Lord, you got a lot of mind renewing to do yet.
Anyways I like the idea of El Christo Negro. His face kinda looks scary though but hey I don’t think id look any better wearing a crown of thorns and going through the agony he went through.
I do like black images of Christ though my personal favourite ( so far) is one done by Janet McKenzie titled, ‘Jesus of the People’ you can see it at this link - http://www.janetmckenzie.com/joppage1.html.
People have many ways of ‘owning’, personalizing and expressing their belief and these are just some representations of that, defiantly not foolishness.
May 13th, 2008 at 11:50 pm
Hey Derri,
Thanks for the fabulous link. I shall include in post to come out asap. Great input as usual.
Best wishes,
Marvia
May 19th, 2008 at 4:42 am
I never knew about this. Thank you for posting this article. I found it very interesting. Loved the costumes of the people in the images too.
May 19th, 2008 at 8:57 am
Monika,
Thanks for stopping by and leaving a word. Costumes, colour, fests and parades abound in Panama. I’m happy to share whatever I can.
Take care!
Marvia
October 16th, 2008 at 3:02 am
[...] actual festival of the Black Christ will be on Tuesday October 21, but the actual trek starts 4 days before the event. For the third [...]